The Inspiration: Valvo’s show notes discussed “the crossroads of Constantinople” and the Ottoman Empire, “reflected in a melange of metalwork and mosaics adorning bodices, riding coats and bustiers.” His “warrior women”-themed show also undeniably called to mind a Game of Thrones vibe — after a similar thought at Tadashi Shoji yesterday, could this dark and moody idea emerge as a trend of the week?
The Look: Sleek gowns lush with details: a black shantung gown adorned with a gunmetal breastplate, for example, or a midnight pleated cocktail dress crafted of leather and a metallic “hologram lace” print. Colors were likewise darkly romantic, with names like gunmetal, oxblood and steel, mixed with splashes of jewel tones and more of those warrior details: a sapphire silk-shantung gown was affixed with chainmail at the neck and shoulders, while a ruby and black silk-shantung gown offered a bit of edge with a yoke in gunmetal. Lace also is thus far proving popular this week, and a peacock pleated lace cocktail dress was particularly lovely.
The Accessories: All those shiny embellishments on the dresses meant jewelry wasn’t needed; Valvo did populate the show with his handbags and shoes, most notably his Seda T-strap sandal.
The Beauty: Ted Gibson crafted long braids that started high on the head, another nod to the show’s warrior theme. (Our full backstage beauty coverage here)
The Casting: Notable on this runway was the final appearance of Valvo’s longtime muse, Taylor Foster, who also received special mention in the designer’s show notes: “Sometimes when you dance with your muse in perfect harmony, magic is created. Taylor will always be my muse, alter-ego and confidante.” Hey, who’s cutting onions in here?!
The Takeaway: A strong collection from Valvo, pun intended: Artful in its architecture and details, yet salable—Katie Couric, in the front row, seemed to love every piece. If you’ve ever looked at a black-tie event as a bit of a battleground, Valvo offers up the ideal armor.